The short answer
Price a job from your real cost per hour, add materials and a margin, then keep a buffer for surprises. Check the result against published ranges, but never price from them alone.
Step 1: your real hourly cost
Add up what it costs to keep you working, then divide by the hours you can actually bill, not the hours you are on the clock:
- your wage and any staff wages, plus super and leave
- vehicle, fuel, tools and equipment
- insurance and licence fees
- phone, software, accounting and other admin
- time spent quoting, driving and chasing payment
Step 2: materials, with a mark up
Add materials at what you pay for them, plus a mark up that covers collecting them, waste and the risk of price rises. Write the brands and quantities on the quote.
Step 3: margin and buffer
Add a margin you keep as profit, then a buffer for the things that always come up: extra prep, access problems, a return visit. If a buffer is never used, you made more than you planned. If it always runs out, it is too small.
Step 4: check it against the market
Compare your price with published ranges, such as the painting ranges on our Costs page. A large gap either way is a reason to check your scope and costs, not to change the number straight away.
Step 5: write the scope
Put in writing what you are doing and what you are not. Changes get priced and signed before the extra work starts. That is how you keep the margin you worked out.
Common questions
How do I work out my hourly rate?
Add up all the costs of keeping you working, then divide by the hours you can bill. Add a margin on top.
Should I match the cheapest quote?
No. Check what the cheaper quote leaves out. Consumer Affairs Victoria warns the cheapest may not include some items.
How big should my buffer be?
Big enough to cover the usual surprises on your type of job. Track what you spend on surprises and adjust.
Sources
- Consumer Affairs Victoria: getting quotes, checked 11 November 2026
- Airtasker: house painter cost (page updated 4 June 2025), checked 11 November 2026
